China in 13 days: complete itinerary through Chongqing, Zhangjiajie, Furong, Fenghuang, Xi'an, Pingyao and Beijing

Chongqing was one of the big surprises of the trip. It doesn't top the Great Wall, but as a futuristic, illuminated city it's the most impressive I saw in China, and Hongya Cave at night looks like a cyberpunk film set.

Days 1–2: Chongqing: city and landmarks

Hongya Cave, multi-storey historic complex built into the hillside, illuminated at night with traditional lanterns. One of the most photographed spots in Chongqing.

Kuixinglou Square, viewpoint that reveals the city's surprising vertical topography across multiple street levels.

Yangtze River, walks along China's longest river with views of the vertical skyline and the enormous bridges connecting the city's districts.

Day 3: Wulong and Three Natural Bridges

Wulong, Three Natural Bridges, three enormous natural stone arches formed by collapsed karst caves, each tens of metres tall. Among the most impressive geological formations in China, about two hours from Chongqing.

If I could, I'd have stayed up to four days in Zhangjiajie. The park is much bigger than it looks and deserves to be explored without rushing.

Day 4: National Park and Avatar Mountains

Yuanjiajie (Avatar Mountains), sandstone pillars covered in vegetation that inspired the floating mountains in the Avatar film. Accessible via the Bailong Elevator, the world's tallest outdoor lift.

Tianzi Mountain, elevated viewpoint above the sea of clouds and the forest of stone pillars stretching across the national park.

Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge, one of the world's highest glass bridges, suspended between two peaks with views of the valley hundreds of metres below.

Day 5: Tianmen Mountain

Tianmen Mountain (Heaven's Gate), mountain with a massive natural rock arch forming a gateway. Access by the world's longest cable car, with views across valleys and forest.

Furong was one of the most distinctive places on the itinerary, mainly because of the night spectacle in the village, with the illuminated waterfall right in the centre. It was unforgettable.

Furong Ancient Town, small historic village built on a cliff with a 60-metre waterfall flowing through the centre. The combination of traditional Tujia architecture and the natural waterfall creates a scene found nowhere else in China.

Wooden walkways beside the waterfall, paths running alongside the cascade with views of the traditional buildings and the valley below.

Viewpoints and traditional market, elevated spots above the village and local market with Tujia culture. At night, the illuminated historic buildings make Furong one of the most photogenic stops on the itinerary.

Fenghuang takes on a completely different mood once the lanterns come on. It's well worth setting aside time to walk through the town at night.

Fenghuang historic centre, stilt houses and cobblestone streets on the banks of the Tuojiang river, with traditional Miao and Tujia architecture preserved for centuries.

Wooden bridges over the Tuojiang river, historic crossings with views of the stilt houses and the water below reflecting the old town.

Ancient temples and watchtowers, historic monuments along the riverbank, especially striking at night when the lighting creates reflections on the water.

The Terracotta Army genuinely impresses, and it's worth setting aside time to see the whole complex at a relaxed pace, because each of the pits is different.

Terracotta Army, thousands of life-size warrior statues buried for over 2,200 years and unearthed in 1974. One of the greatest archaeological discoveries in history.

Ancient city wall, medieval wall encircling Xi'an's historic centre, walkable or cyclable along its full perimeter with views of both the old and new city.

Muslim Quarter, a maze of historic streets with century-old mosques, traditional markets and Silk Road cuisine.

Pingyao was the most peaceful city on the itinerary and one of those that best preserved the atmosphere of ancient China.

Pingyao city walls, 14th-century imperial walls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with watchtowers and panoramic views over the historic centre.

Cobblestone streets and historic merchant houses, preserved Ming dynasty architecture with traditional courtyards and centuries-old shop fronts.

Rishengchang Exchange Shop, China's first draft bank, founded in 1823, now a museum that reveals Pingyao's role as the financial capital of imperial China.

Beijing exceeded my expectations, with the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace, but it was the Great Wall at Mutianyu that stood out as the highlight of the entire trip.

Days 11–12: Beijing: imperial palaces and squares

Forbidden City, the ancient imperial palace with 9,999 rooms across 72 hectares, home to China's emperors for nearly 500 years. Entrance through Tiananmen Square.

Tiananmen Square, one of the world's largest public squares, with the portrait of Mao Zedong at its northern end and the Monument to the People's Heroes at the centre.

Summer Palace, imperial complex of gardens, lakes and pavilions 15 km from the city centre, considered the most harmonious of China's imperial palaces.

Day 13: Great Wall

Great Wall of China, Mutianyu, one of the best-preserved sections, about 90 minutes from Beijing with fewer crowds than Badaling. Access by cable car or steep hike, with views over forested valleys.